Multi-ply fabric having a blocked appearance



P 1962 J. D. WILLIAMS ETAL 3,053,287

MULTI-PLY FABRIC HAVING A BLOCKED APPEARANCE Filed NOV. 14, 1960 FIG 5.7

INVENTORS 3,053,287 MULTI-PLY FABRIC HAVING A BLOCKED APPEARANCE John D. Williams, Barrington, R.I., and Edmund L. Pineau, Swansee, Mass., assignors to Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation, New York, N.Y., a corporation of New York Filed Nov. 14, 1960, Ser. No. 68,950 1 Claim. (Cl. 139-3855) This invention relates to fabrics especially adapted for the manufacture of collars, cuffs and other garment parts and has reference to a fabric which shall be of novel appearance and in which wrinkling or curling up in a given direction throughout the body of an article composed of the fabric will be effectively resisted, to the end that the collar, cufi or other article will indefinitely present a neat appearance.

It is an object of the invention to provide a fabric having the above-mentioned characteristics and in which a blocked appearance is produced in a three-ply weave by means of special disposition of binder warp threads.

It is an object of the invention to provide a three-ply collar material having a blocked appearance which nevertheless will retain its desired non-wrinkling characteristics.

More particularly, the invention contemplates the provision of a front ply composed of front warp and weft threads; a back ply similarly com-posed of warp and weft threads; gut threads disposed between the front and back plies to give body to the cloth, and warp binder threads in a novel arrangement to secure the desired block effect in the cloth.

With these and other objects to be hereinafter set forth in View, we have devised the arrangement set forth herein and more particularly pointed out in the claim appended hereto.

In the accompanying drawing, wherein an illustrative embodiment of the invention is shown,

.FIG. 1 is an enlarged sectional view through a piece of fabric constructed according to the invention, the section being taken in a direction parallel to the warp of the fabric;

FIG. 2 is a similar view of the fabric, with the binder threads having opposite undulations;

FIG. 3 is a sectional view through a portion of the fabric which forms the fold line of a collar, which portion has a single warp back, binder threads working opposite to one another and the gut threads eliminated after a gradual tapering off;

FIG. 4 is a sectional View, taken substantially on the line 4-4 of FIG. 1, looking in the direction of the arrows;

FIG. 5 is a sectional view, taken substantially on the line 5-5 of FIG. 2, looking in the direction of the arrows, and

FIG. 6 is a sectional View, taken substantially on the line 6-6 of FIG. 3, looking in the direction of the arrows.

In the fabric shown in FIG. 1 of the drawing, the face weave or front ply of the fabric consists of the warp threads 1 and 2 in engagement wtih the weft or filler threads 3. The rear weave or back ply of the fabric consists of the warp threads 4 and 5 engaging the rear weft or filler threads 6. The binder threads are shown at 8' and the gut threads 7 forming the central ply or filling, are located between the front and back weaves.

As will be noted from FIG. 4, four of the gut threads are used per dent in the reed, the den-ts being indicated at 9a in FIG. 4, a dent being the space between two wires of the loom reed. The number of gut threads employed serves to provide the desired weight in the cloth. The

weave shown in FIG. 4 repeats itself every eight picks.

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FIG. 2 of the drawing shows the complete weave in the cloth. In the end view shown in FIG. 5, the reed dents are indicated at =10. It will be noted that in the dent shown at the left, two binder threads working opposite to one another, or having oppositely disposed undulations, are used and are indicated respectively at 8 and 9. In this construction, a warp-wise rib effect is made by skipping two dents and then starting with the two binder threads 8 and 9 working opposite to one another to make the warp-wise rib. In the dents which follow the two binder threads, one binder thread 8 is used. To make the filling rib, there are four binders working together to repeat every eighth pick to complete the block effect.

In the end view shown in FIG. 5, there is shown three dents in which there is a first repeat as seen from line 5-5 on FIG. 2 followed by two similar repeats as seen from line 4-4 of FIG. 1, the first repeat appearing at the left end of FIG. 5. There are two binders 8 and 9 at one edge of each repeat working opposite to each other to result in the warp -wise rib.

In FIGS. 3 and 6 is shown the area of the cloth that is located at the fold line of the collar to be produced. The front weave, consisting of the warp threads 1 and 2 and the filler or weft threads 3 is as described in connection with the cloth of FIGS. 1 and 2, the rear weave however being of single warp construction, such warp being that indicated at 4. The binders 8 and 9', working opposite to one another, are similar to those described in connection with FIGS. 1 and 2. The gut threads are omitted in this area of the cloth after a gradual tapering off.

In the manufacture of the cloth, four warp beams are used namely, a face warp, back warp, gut or stulfer warp, and a binder warp to tie the other three warps together. Filling is supplied by one shuttle and quill working crosswise from the warp threads.

The resultant cloth has a novel blocked appearance while retaining all of the characteristics of a non-wrinkle three-ply fabric.

Having thus described an embodiment of the invention, it is obvious that the same is not to be restricted thereto, but is broad enough to cover all structures coming within the scope of the annexed claim.

What we claim is:

A collar fabric comprising a front ply having a plurality of face wefts, a plurality of pairs of face warps alternately extending above and below adjacent face wefts; a back ply having a plurality of back wefts, a plurality of pairs of back warps extending alternately above andbelow adjacent back wefts; gut warps disposed between said plies; said fabric having a series of repeats and including a first repeat having a pair of binder warps alternately extending uniformly across the outer face of each ply and between a similar number of face and back wefts; second and third repeats having a single binder warp alternately extending from the same side of the plies between said similar number of face and back wefts and a fold section in said fabric comprising a portion of said front ply, said back wefts, a plurality of single back warps alternately extending above and below adjacent back wefts, and a pair of binder warps between adjacent single back warps.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 625,120 Ollagnier et a1. May 16, 1899 1,947,508 Zimmerer Feb. 20, 1934 2,861,600 Lawton Nov. 25, 1958 2,929,412 Abendroth Mar. 22, 1960 

